A Marriage of Two Great Travel Loves: Italy and Switzerland
In this blog series I want to go back to the basics of why I love to travel, and I know many of you do too: because you’re curious. Curious to learn more about a new culture, curious to learn more about different ways of living life, curious to try new foods, learn about new customs and broaden your worldview. In this blog series we’ll be sharing and learning about different corners of the world, highlighting some of our favorite storytellers who can bring these stories to life on a future trip, and helping you, albeit virtually, indulge your love and curiosity to travel.
If I could pick just two destinations to travel to the rest of my life the likely picks would be Italy and Switzerland. I mean that’s a really hard question to answer; it’s probably up there with asking you to pick a favorite child, hence the “likely.” But I love these two countries for very very very different reasons.
In Italy I’m drawn to the food, the wine, the warmth of the people, the amazing art, landscapes that take your breath away, cobblestone streets, water views, renaissance history and the food (did I already say that?!)
And in Switzerland the mountains give me simultaneous feelings of strength and calm. I also love how effortless it is to travel through Switzerland, the fondu, alpine hiking, picnics with epic views, scenic train rides, friendly people and easy-going lifestyle.
The countries are very different, but I appreciate each for what they are and what I gain from them.
So it strikes me as so peculiar when I first discover a mash-up of these two countries in an unlikely place: at Vatican City. Important to note: Vatican City is a sovereign country. While it is geographically situated inside the capital of Italy (Rome) it is its own country, and surrounded by city walls. It’s approximately 160 acres in size, and the population is about 800 - so it’s the smallest country in the world.
But alas - despite the Swiss having a tradition of neutrality (read more about that here) for over 500 years a special group of Swiss military guards have taken on the role of the chief army charged with protecting the Pope and Vatican City. I’ve been to the Vatican a handful of times and got an up close view of these Guards when I joined to hear the Pope’s weekly address a few years back. If you’ve seen these Guards in person or in photos, you might have noticed a few unique characteristics.
I reached out to a local guide - Antje Wolf - who frequently introduces Rome, including the Vatican, to our Travel Design clients, to help us understand the peculiar history of having Swiss Guards defend the Pope, and the pomp and circumstance around their role and appearance.
Q: How is it that Swiss guards found their way to Vatican City over 500 years ago, and took on the role of defending the Pope and Vatican City?
Over 500 years ago, when the Swiss economy wasn’t as secure as it is today, young Swiss men traveled around Europe offering their services as professionally trained soldiers. They were hired in France, the Netherlands and elsewhere throughout Renaissance Europe. One big “client” if you will, was Pope Julius II, who established the Pontifical (AKA ‘relating to the Pope’) Swiss Guard in 1506. The Guard has continued to serve and protect the Pope and Vatican City ever since! Because the Swiss have generally been very neutral during these 500 years (especially from 1815 forward) not been in the business of conquering foreign lands, or involved in multiple wars, the Swiss soldiers were considered very reliable.
Q: Who are these Swiss Guards?
The men, and yes only men, who fulfill this duty have to be Swiss citizens, single, between the ages of 19-30, be at least 5’8” tall, hold a high-school degree or professional diploma, be a devout Roman Catholic, and their application should be endorsed by their local Catholic priest.
Q: What roles do the Swiss Guards play?
There are about 110 Swiss Guards employed today, and are considered the personal Papel Security. Today they generally have two roles: if you see a Swiss Guard with their hands clasped together and in front of his body, that means they’re there to answer your questions, point you in the right direction, and survey the crowd. If you see a Swiss Guard standing in silence with a large medieval weapon called a halberd in his hand, this means he’s on “Honor Duty” and should not be disturbed. The Swiss Guards even travel with the Pope, serving as his bodyguard and security.
Image courtesy of Etienne Girardet via Unsplash
Q: What is the significance of their uniform, and the medieval weapons they carry?
With flashy bright blue, yellow and red colors, and sometimes a large feathered helmet, their uniforms stop most tourists in their tracks. This style of uniform harkens back to the Renaissance era, and has been worn since the early 1900’s. Apparently each uniform is custom tailored to fit each Guard, and takes about 30 hours to make! The halberd weapon you might see some Guards carrying are made by specialized blacksmiths, and some pieces used today are said to be originals from the 15th century! Today they’re carried for the same reasons the Renaissance uniform is still used: tradition.
Q: I’ve heard about the big crowds that visit the Vatican! What do you think is the best way to experience the Vatican and minimize the impact of big crowds and long lines?
It’s always best (and sometimes required) to make a reservation in advance if you want to visit the Vatican Museum (which is the only way to get to the Sistine Chapel.) The only place you should reserve tickets is through the official website where you’ll need to select a specific entry time, and stick to that time slot. The ideal times to visit are first thing in the morning, at lunch time, or late afternoon. And Friday evening visits make for a beautiful experience and start to the weekend! If you just want to visit St. Peter’s Basilica, then a ticket is not required - you’ll just need to wait in line to go through security to gain entrance. To fully understand and appreciate the history and significance of the area (without the headache of big crowds!) spending your day exploring Vatican City with a guide is the best option, as they’ll help you navigate the crowds, security lines and take you through the labyrinth of twelve different art collections inside the Vatican Museum, find the ideal times (and way!) to enter the Sistine Chapel, and point out the historical milestones and pieces throughout St. Peter’s Basilica. You’ll leave this day full of knowledge, stories and great experience (not sweat, frustration, and little knowledge as to the significance of what you’ve been looking at!)
There is so much history - and interconnected history - to be found across Europe. While it can get overwhelming to connect all these dots, I encourage you to pick a topic, and follow its thread through history and around the globe!
Here’s to staying curious, and continuing to use travel as a vehicle to learn and expand our world view!
Mary + the Living Big Travel team